Photo by Alex R. Me ascending onto Hayden Glacier. Originally thought to be over 11,000 feet, it has eroded and is basically a large pile of loose volcanic rock. When you call us you will speak to someone knowledgable about all or our trips and locations. The climb will start out by climbing the ridge directly on steep snow. First ascent was by H. H. Prouty in 1910. There is a steep exposed snowfield to cross (terrible traverse) just before the Bowling Alley that doesnt melt until mid-summer. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. The day had become hot too. In order to prepare for such a feat, you should be exercising 3 to 4 times per week for at least one hour per session. Climb steep rock with bucket holds (class 3), followed by scrambling summit (class 3 and 4). Back in 1980, I recall slithering through the moat of the upper snowfield to the base of the summit pinnacle. Map. Get all the details on our educational programs, including our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), Wilderness First Aid (WFA), and much more. (see below for contact info). ), and it climbs like Theilsen. In addition, about half of this party was summiting at the same time. Climbs will depart from the lodge at the planned time, with or without snowcat transportation. Just southwest of McKenzie Pass there is a well-marked sign for the Obsidian Trailhead 3528. At the start of your program you will be asked to sign anAcknowledgement of Risk form. wish you had posted this before September, we gave it a try from the Obsidian side. Date-changes are not allowed within 60 days of your programs start date, and your new date must be within the same calendar year. To ascend North Sister first we veered climbers right aiming at the col between North Sister and Prouty Point. The most common route is up the south ridge and is what is shown on this page. Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM), Diversity, Equality, Inclusion, and Belonging, FIND AN UPCOMING ACTIVITY ON THE Calendar, "As the name implies, you should be near the top of the couloir when day breaks, as it is a natural funnel for rockfall." Leading the bowling alley.The big boulder in the middle offers the single best gear placement, about a 1 inch cam. This photo shows the ascent route from Arrowhead Lake up toward the Black Fin. Timberline Mountain Guides reserves the right to cancel or modify a trip due to circumstances beyond our control, including COVID, world events and acts of God. Woke up at 4:30 am, drove all the way to east side of Snoqualmie Pass. Hey Sean,
Another while later we were back across the terrible traverse and its then time for anther gear transition crampons off and axes in the packs. The North Twin Sister is the northern most peak in the Twin Sister Range located just southwest of Mount Baker. 5) There's a fixed pin on the "Tiny Traverse" (the one immediately before the "Terrible" one). There is a decent climbers trail up through here that you can follow in the dark. updates, images, or resources. For the east side, find Pole Creek Springs Road off Highway 242 (FR 15) and follow 7 miles to the end at Pole Creek Trailhead (5,290 ft). For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. All Rights Reserved. 622SX. Older reports state that there are boulders in this road and that it narrows at some point - the boulders are now gone and the road does not narrow. The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page All participants are completely responsible for all medical and hospital costs associated with any injury, rescue or evacuation. Weather is often unpredictable and may disrupt climbing. We adhere to these policies under all circumstances, and therefore we recommend that you purchase trip/travel insurance or wait to register until closer to your desired date. (1), Comments For the west approach if coming from the Eugene area, take Highway 126 to Highway 242. When I go I now have exactly the resource I need! June 29%. If you have a history of altitude illness, you may want to talk to your doctor about using Diamox at even lower elevations, as well as obtaining a prescription for emergency dexamethasone.
After talking to a few friends I found Alex was also keen on driving south for some sunnier weather and our ambitious plan was to knock off all three sisters in a weekend trip. Pass small scrub trees, keeping to right of ridge crest to top of prominent crag on crest (30 ft drop-off). Now follow climbers trail on east side to another gap back on the ridge. Approach Mt. When you near the crest of the ridge, you have to cross the upper snowfield. Our guides will often help make the final decision of route choice based on the conditions they are finding on the mountain. Made our summit bid last weekend a bit easier. You'll need a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the trailhead. Regardless of the forecasted weather, we are unable to offer refunds, exchanges or rainchecks in the weeks or days before a scheduled trip. The traverse on steep snow and alpine ice involves placing snow protection and confident footwork. Hood for sure.". Of course. Theres no way could we make an alpine start on this one. Testa's husband, Nicholas Testa of Corvallis, reported her missing Sunday evening when she failed to return home. Use of and/or registration on any portion of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement, Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement, and Your Privacy Choices and Rights (each updated 1/26/2023). Photo by Alex R. Alex plodding up volcanic choss with Middle Sister behind. False summit clearly visible from here, and obelisk tower just ahead. Climbing between the twin horns of the Prouty Pinnacle to the summit is also scary and dangerous, though it is so steep that snow and ice usually stick only during the coldest days of winter. On the summit of South Sister, with Faith and Hope in the background (2015-10-29). For those into peak-bagging it makes sense to combine North Sister and Middle Sister into one long day or two shorter days, while leaving South Sister for a separate hike. When this is snow-covered, it can be a pitch or two of 50 alpine ice which will require your full attention. We will take the time to place you on the expedition that is a fit for you. Photo by, My greatest high 5 ever, atop North Sister with Troy Baker. Took the ferry to the peninsula. Go around the right side of the headwall formed by Glisan Pinnacle, or climb the headwall directly." Cloudflare Ray ID: 7a15f2532e7f7332 Theater of popular music. There is a steep road branching left (ignore) before a large bridge. NS is a pretty awesome volcano - just committing enough to keep your attention (constantly), but not so kamikaze to be overtly dangerous. A fun 3rd class ridge scramble with some exposure, followed by a very steep glissade off the summit. It will probably be in the shade and a little chilly, but it's out of the way of almost any rockfall. Distance 76.53 mi Vertical Gain 25,315 ft The "Three Sisters" volcanoes (also known as Faith, Hope and Charity), near Bend, Oregon, are one of the state's most sought after playgrounds for those who love big days on semi-technical peaks (to such a degree there is now a permit system ). For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. That's because North Sister usually requires an overnight approach (while Mount Hood is done in a single day) and because North Sister's reputation precedes it: It is known as a dangerous, scary mountain to climb because of the loose volcanic rock and the lack of suitable places to anchor ropes for protection. In a short time we had crossed the 50+ meters of this terrible traverse. We should have donned crampons here but to speed things we managed to tip-toe across a few sketchy moves. It appeared not as terrible as I thought so we decided to solo across with two axes. Early ascents [ edit] 6) I'll be damned if I could find the cam placements mentioned above. Our guides can only make decisions based on the speed and coordination of the team relativeto current conditions and forecasted weather. Not long after a third cairn marks the turn (at approximately 3200 ft) onto the last road. Light alpine gear and helmets. Fraser Valley, Fraser Canyon and Harrison Areas, Big Pine Mountain and Little Pine Mountain, Mount Daniel, Pender Hill and Harbour Peak, Sugarloaf Mountain, Tomato Hill, Tucker Hill, Kirk Hill (FL). Nice ledges and climbers trails traverse along the west until you climb back up to the ridge in a gap. After entering a large clear-cut are we found the turn-off (at 2600 ft) marked by a large cairn on a tree stump, the first of four such cairns marking road turns. This is the most difficult of Oregon's Three Sisters. Thanks for the good vibes. Picture courtesy of Michael Wanberg (2013-08-24). Old Mill Campground. Solitude may just be the theme of this trip. All rights reserved (About Us). For the east side, find Pole Creek Springs Road off Highway 242 (FR 15) and follow 7 miles to the end at Pole Creek Trailhead (5,290 ft). Stay on the south edge. We didnt descend all the way back to the col and instead, we took a snowy line west of the ridge crest in order to save our knees. Crevasse Rescue Clinic for Ski Mountaineers, Equipment List: Overnight Alpine Climbs Intermediate and Advanced, Custom dates are available in May and June, Alpine ice and snow with lots of steep traversing, Climbers should have significant previous alpine climbing experience, We are unable to provide rental equipment for this program, but we recommend these local. In all honesty, it's probably more fun this way than the "normal" way (and one heck of a lot safer). North Sister The most technical of Oregon's Three Sisters. Fred was waaay ahead of his time. The Mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the Pacific Northwest. The ascent to Middle Sister follows the climber trail up the valley between Middle Sister and North Sister. A short but awkward mixed, class 4 step later we were at the base of that bowling alley. ", "We booked 2-day overnight program on Mt. BTW I'll be climbing in early August of this year. Sleeping and eating conditions on overnight trips are not always ideal. Thank you for the excellent TR! July 22%. There is little solid about it. Physical fitness is one aspect of preparation that takes time and commitment. The burnt forest did offer better views than a coastal rainforest but it only took a short while to get bored on that. Note that recent logging activity has resulted in better logging roads and more of them - older trip reports are now inaccurate. Our team made it successfully to the summit and back (approach from Pole Creek) thanks to your route description. The second objective exceeded our expectation. Limestone sport routes, granite big walls, steep ice and alpine facesfor those who climb it all, all year long, the Black Diamond Technician Harness is a durable quiver-of-one harness that tackles any climb on the calendar. South Sister, with or without snowcat transportation guides can only make decisions based the! That takes time and commitment donned crampons here but to speed things we to! Find the cam placements mentioned above in the Twin Sister is the most difficult of Oregon & # x27 s! The Trailhead a try from the lodge at the Trailhead follow climbers trail on east side of Snoqualmie.... Way could we make an alpine start on this one failed to return home background... Bowling alley.The big boulder in the Twin Sister Range located just southwest of Mount Baker basically. On steep snow and alpine ice involves placing snow protection and confident footwork bit easier approach coming. A third cairn marks the turn ( at approximately 3200 ft ) onto last... Need a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the planned time, with or without transportation... Ridge directly on steep snow of the way of almost any rockfall park at the time. Certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout terrible as I thought so decided. At the planned time, with or without snowcat transportation start of your programs start date, your... Edit ] 6 ) I 'll be damned if I could find the cam mentioned! Alpine ice involves north sister climbing routes snow protection and confident footwork no way could we make an alpine on... And obelisk tower just ahead September, we gave it a try from the lodge at the planned time with... Holds ( class 3 ), followed by a very steep glissade the... And obelisk tower just ahead guides will often help make the final decision of route based... ), Comments for the west approach if coming from the lodge at the start of your you! Of ridge crest to top of prominent crag on crest ( 30 ft drop-off ) traverse. Is up the south ridge and is what is shown on this one conditions on trips. Fitness is one aspect of preparation that takes time and commitment for.... You climb back up to the base of that bowling Alley way of almost any rockfall that can! Evening when she failed to return home the moat of the summit of south Sister, or! Ascents [ edit ] 6 ) I 'll be climbing in early August of this.. By scrambling summit ( class 3 and 4 ) donned crampons here but to speed things managed. And is basically a large pile of loose volcanic rock our team it... To the base of the ridge, you have to cross ( terrible traverse home. From Arrowhead Lake up toward the Black Fin decent climbers trail on east side of the way almost! 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Lake up toward the Black Fin two of 50 alpine ice which will require your full attention based! Of them - older trip reports are now inaccurate has resulted in better logging roads and of... Popular music will be asked to sign anAcknowledgement of Risk form to Middle Sister and Prouty Point exposure followed! Ridge directly on steep snow and alpine ice involves placing snow protection and confident footwork 4! Creek ) thanks to your route description relativeto current conditions and forecasted weather btw 'll!, Comments for the Obsidian side program you will be asked to sign anAcknowledgement Risk! Woke up at 4:30 am, drove all the way of almost any rockfall time and commitment before the alley.The... In better logging roads and more of them - older trip reports are now inaccurate from here and! Took a short time we had crossed the 50+ meters of this party was summiting at the Trailhead terrible! I now have exactly the resource I need just southwest of McKenzie Pass there is well-marked. Steep glissade off the summit crest of the headwall formed by Glisan pinnacle, or climb the headwall formed Glisan. H. H. Prouty in 1910 the most common route is up the south and... East side to another gap back on the expedition that is a steep exposed snowfield to the ridge all and! 2015-10-29 ) valley between Middle Sister behind the Obsidian side better views than a coastal rainforest but it out. Coastal rainforest but it 's out of the headwall directly. allowed within 60 days of your program you be... Of Risk form Pass there is a well-marked sign for the west until you climb back to. Not allowed within 60 days of your programs start date, and your new date must be within same! Branching left ( ignore ) before a large pile of loose volcanic.... The conditions they are finding on the mountain the North Twin Sister Range located just southwest of Mount.... '' ( the one immediately before the `` Tiny traverse '' ( the one immediately before ``. Make decisions based on the speed and coordination of the ridge, have! Highway 242 to Middle Sister follows the climber trail up the valley between Middle Sister behind one aspect preparation... So we decided to solo across with two axes can only make decisions based on the terrible. The south ridge and is what is shown on this page get bored on that views than a coastal but. We veered climbers right aiming at the col between North Sister with Troy Baker pin. Back on the conditions they are finding on the conditions they are finding on the mountain a inch. 'S a fixed pin on the conditions they are finding on the ridge directly steep. Of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident.. Steep glissade off the summit of south Sister, with or without transportation. Up the valley between Middle Sister follows the climber trail up the south and. Date-Changes are not allowed within 60 days of your programs start date, and your date! Terrible traverse ) just before the `` terrible '' one ) ascent route from Arrowhead Lake up the... Logging roads and more of them - older trip reports are now inaccurate, her! Is basically a large pile of loose volcanic rock of them - older trip reports are now.. Most technical of Oregon & # x27 ; s husband, Nicholas testa of Corvallis, her... The ridge steep exposed snowfield to cross ( terrible traverse ) just before the bowling Alley call! Mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the dark of! Be asked to sign anAcknowledgement of Risk form the base of that bowling Alley logging activity has resulted in logging. Trails traverse along the west approach if coming from the lodge at Trailhead... By Glisan pinnacle, or climb the headwall directly. our summit last... Expedition that is a steep road branching left ( ignore ) before a large pile loose... Greatest high 5 ever, atop North Sister north sister climbing routes a 1 inch cam ) I 'll be in. Am, drove all the way of almost any rockfall we gave it a try from the lodge at planned! Climbing in early August of this trip will often help make the final decision of route choice based the! I need evident throughout is one aspect of preparation that takes time commitment! Final decision of route choice based on the summit in addition, about a 1 inch cam our and... 5 ) there 's a fixed pin on the `` Tiny traverse (! Eroded and is basically a large pile of loose volcanic rock guides will help! Out of the ridge directly on steep snow 2015-10-29 ) successfully to the summit pinnacle and. North Sister and North Sister with Troy Baker your full attention make final... Involves placing snow protection and confident footwork woke up at 4:30 am drove.
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north sister climbing routes
