Hi Simon, somewhat related to Pauls question as well as your more recent post on wearing loafers with jeans, Ive recently become interested in trying black tassel loafers with jeans (dark, selvedge denim). (Excluding the price difference/personal preference.) Bet that poses a challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes. I think I will acquire one pair of Alden boots. Ive seen some people in more casual cities pull off balmorals or derby boots like a Galway with quality denim, but Im a little young to pull off that kind of boot in general. I am planning to wear those with grey/navy suit but also occasionally with trousers or dark jeans. Lots of details above in the comments sorry, too much to repeat here! Above all, each piece is different. Hi, Some shell will spot at the sight of rain, while others (even the same maker and tannery) will soak it up and keep clear of spots, like nothing happened. I would think of cordovan as similar to suede in this regard not as formal as calf leather, but still smarter than a lot of rougher boots. Any thought / insight would be much appreciated (and justified by the title of this article;). I have had a pair of Alden loafers in colour 8 (which you rarely ever see in the wild where I live but feel hopelessly unoriginal after reading this article and the comments) for years and all I needed to do as you say is the occasional brush or rub down with a piece of cloth and keep them on shoe trees. Yes, definitely. Please send me pictures! I live in topsiders during the summer months and these also seem to have strong ties to the Northeastern United States. Hi Simon, Where would you recommend trying and buying the full strap loafer from the UK? Ive only seen the exact style on sale in the US, yes, but that could change it depends what other Alden stockists decide to order. I used to feel the same way about suede as you once did about cordovan. To clean it up, lightly dampen a rag with a small 50/50 mixture of distilled white vinegar and water. I have two pairs of Cordovans from Vass. (Thinkwould set the bar too highIm aware ). Footwear can be exciting but your initial investment (emphasis on investment) should give you the most return. Sounds so random. The leather was mostly used as leather strops to hone razors as well as for luxurious trunks and wall hangings before advances in leather tanning in the 19th century made the leather suitable for footwear. I recently considered getting a pair of Aldens but after learning that theyre a sustainer of the horse slaughtering industry I will be looking elsewhere. so from the above what did the Madison Avenue store did for you? What is the right fit for it? I am really surprised about the off the box fit- I have the same model in suede and it wasnt as good at first, but here I have no noticeable pressure points after using them for some hours around the house. If youre the kind of guy who needs the best of the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan is a rare product. My Horween Shell Cordovan boots - Color #4 and #8. r/goodyearwelt [Initial Impressions] Custom Nicks Ridgeline in Brown Waxed Flesh. https://viberg.com/products/service-boot-cap-toe-horween-dark-cognac-shell-cordovan. But, it will better retain its coloration across wears. They do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. In shoes where the volume isnt a tight-fit, it will be more difficult to fix the flex point, and likewise, fix the rolls to a set point. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Theyre really nice. The pigment from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself. Yesterday morning I got an email about some Enzo Bonafe loafers in Colour 8 cordovan and I was wondering what is that? Should be an easy ship across the pond. 8 pairs of the color 8 from Alden.. but not these loafers. Many of our leathers, especially Shell Cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards to wear and age. I wouldnt wear that style with anything remotely smart. What should I be looking for, on the good or bad side? J&M no longer makes anything worthwhile . I now deeply regret the non-refundable downpayment on the shell-bleaching greenhouse. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. Id imagine the black Alden will be a little easier, as theyll be a bit wider, with a bigger welt etc. Hi Simon ! Thanks for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you. Thanks! But if you have the means to get a pair for yourself (whether thats with an employee discount or not), Id say go for it. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. I find this to be true. Thanks Thanks. Your email address will not be published. It makes Donald Trump look like a liberal free trader! Hi Simon, I have a similar shape to the foot, and youll find the Van or Barrie more comfortable as they are wider at the joints. Yes, I think makers that arent used to it will avoid it if they can. I mean, I see cons, but what exact reasons of yours? They were one of the best pieces of footwear I have ever worn; always smart and shiny in the the Cherry Black that you describe. One of the reasons I find Color 8 so unique is that I havent found any other red or green hued colour of loafer that is anywhere near as classic or versatile, Many thanks as ever, seems a shame theres not something in that niche a bit closer to home when you think about the additional resource that would have to go into shipping them over! Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. If I find some really old, beaten up shell shoesshould I buy them? I have inherited a pair of Church cordovan brogues. Would you be kind to tell your usual shoe size in UK and what size did you get for the Barrie last in US size please? Yes, Van is wider so theres a lot more room in there, though I didnt find going a half size down worked for me that made the loafer too short on the toes. You also mentioned brushing them the day you wear them. Thank you, To be honest Hugh I wear them the same as any normal black shoe, and its fine. Great article. The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? Do you have any tips to reduce that sound ? Hi, I personally have very narrow heels and most of my loafers have heel slippage. Ive owner 2 pairs of Cordovan shoes in recent years, one by Churchs (in a plain Derby) and the other by Crockett & Jones (in a Brogue identical to the ones they did for Polo Ralph Lauren). Do they stretch after the break in period? I think it depends what you want out of the denim shirt. The shetland is no more see-through than any other shetland really, but then youd always wear a shirt underneath, so you cant see anything anyway? What materials and colours work with suede that dont work with cordovan? As the owner of a dozen pairs of Alden Cordovans, I can tell you that the model youve chosen to highlight (the full strap loafer) is one of the most comfortable. Still, those can be buffed out or taken out with cream, and the point is they dont get salt stains, which are what really kill leather shoes in the long term. On the waviness, are you keeping shoe trees in them after wear? Youre just more likely to remember to do it after youve worn them. There is no black/purple look that I see from your pair. I actually went up a half size on the jumper boots, but that was because I knew Id wear them with really thick socks in winter. Simon, what would you think of Aldens tassel loafer in Color 8 cordovan, in the Aberdeen last?Leffot has it:https: //leffot.com/brands/alden/563. Thank you, Simon. The shopkeeper guy suggested me to get 7.5 as they will stretch. Next time youre in NY it might be worth the 2 hour flight to Atlanta to visit Sid Mashburns flagship store here. And second, its tough and pretty much waterproof. But it is this dull glow, this subtle character that I think appeals more to me now. You could wear most things, the versatility point was more about colours and materials things might look best with. Right now they are a dull maroon color. very interesting article, as always. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. I dont have any from Crocketts, but did have a pair from Edward Green (mentioned above). Theyd become a bit darker. The protectionist EU has a long track record of imposing high Common External Tariffs on goods (especially shoes) that are made outside the EU, notably China. hi simon, been looking to purchase a casual shoe like this from paraboot (https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america) and will be my first foray into this colour. Its a bit loose for my liking, worsened with some heel slip. Many thanks, They are among my favourite shoes, as the fit and comfort is great. Alden (same as yours) or Carmina? But the point is not just putting fat/oil on. Theres no rule here just bear in mind that its a more casual material. Now when I have nightmares where Im running in slow motion and zombie Hitler is chasing me on a horse-sized scorpion with my grandmothers face, these are the shoes Im wearing. Ive always somehow found that look somehow silly on me. In the winter, I will wipe my shoes with a damp cloth at the end of the day to remove any salt, a Chicago-type climate concern. I wore them until the welt could not stand up to another repair. I just might get a pair.. they look great with Denim. This makes it noticeably more difficult to break in than calfskin and unless youre considering a shell cordovan belt, watch strap or leather wallet, youre gonna feel it. If you want another recommendation, look at the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan. Shell cordovan is a loved material by many, with its special characteristics and durability. Im unsure if I should size up have a size or go with a 7.5. However, all oils oxidize over time, so conditioning and replacing the waxes and oils, is a beneficial step that we recommend every 10-15 wears. I will confess (and so would my father) that we have many more fine pairs of shoes than one deserves. I dont think Ive seen anybody doing it. Incidentally, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon? Maybe its my feet which are bit biased towards the outer sides but I had to put in some extra insole in my two twenty year old pairs perhaps eight years ago, as they have become wider and my feet began to slip noticeably. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? Meaning it might never be available. But the sole is thicker too. How much is too much? The cons are more rare to find info about, when something is as hyped as shell cordovan is and has been in recent times. It wouldnt be unusual for a tannery to offer different grades, in fact it would be very standard, but that doesnt mean Horween do. May I ask: how do the C&J Cavendish and the Belgravia and their vamps compare to the Alden? Thanks! Alex, To be honest Ive generally preferred the Alden cordovan. I am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan, Simon. Shell Cordovan is really quite a stellar leather to wear. 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